See what your state pays in EV charger rebates.
We researched all 50 states, the District of Columbia, and about 50 electric utilities to answer one question: after you buy a charger and pay an electrician, how much of it can you get back?
All 50 states plus the District of Columbia. Every amount links to the official program page.
Two pots of money — and most people only find one
The first pays toward the charger itself. The second, usually the bigger one, pays toward the electrical work: a hardwired circuit, a 240V NEMA 14-50 outlet, or a panel upgrade. Some states pay two to five times more for the wiring than for the charger.
We also tell you when a program will not work for you. Some are locked to a single charger brand. Some require the utility to control when charging happens. Some are open only to businesses. You should know that before you spend money, not after.
The federal EV charger tax credit ended June 30, 2026.
The 30C Alternative Fuel Vehicle Refueling Property Credit used to cover 30% of a charger and its installation, up to $1,000 for a home. Public Law 119-21 moved its termination date from December 31, 2032 to June 30, 2026. The IRS instructions for Form 8911 now state plainly that the credit cannot be claimed for property placed in service after that date.
If you install a charger today, there is no federal credit to claim. Some utility websites still advertise it — they are out of date. Worth knowing too: even while it was alive, the credit required the address to sit in a qualifying census tract, and a great many suburban homes never qualified.
Everything worth having now is at the state and utility level. In a lot of states that money is considerably bigger than the federal credit ever was.
How to actually get the money
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Find your electric utility before anything else
Look at your electric bill. The utility is where most of the money is, and utility programs are almost always faster and simpler than state programs. Two houses in the same state can qualify for completely different amounts purely because of who sells them power.
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Decide whether you need electrical work
This single question changes which program you use. If you already have a suitable 240V circuit, you want the charger rebate. If you need a new circuit, a NEMA 14-50 outlet, or a panel upgrade, go after the install money — it is usually two to five times larger. Rhode Island makes you choose one or the other explicitly.
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Check whether the business door pays more
If you rent the property out, run it through an LLC, or own a commercial building, apply as a business. Maryland pays a homeowner $700 and a business $5,000 per charger under the same program. In Delaware, Georgia, Hawaii, and Utah the business application is the only one that pays anything.
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Read the application before you buy
Look for three things: does it require pre-approval, does it require a specific charger model or certification, and how many days do you have to file after purchase. Getting any of those wrong is the most common reason a claim is denied.
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Hire a licensed electrician and pull the permit
Nearly every program requires a licensed electrician's invoice, and many require a permit and a passed inspection. Doing the work yourself usually disqualifies you no matter how well it is done. If your utility has a qualified-contractor list, use it.
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File, then file the next one
Utility rebates typically pay in four to twelve weeks as a bill credit or check. State tax credits are claimed on your return the following spring. These are separate filings — a utility rebate does not file your state credit for you, and people routinely leave the second one on the table.
Six things that get your claim paid
Apply before you buy. Several programs require pre-approval and will only pay on equipment approved first. Read the application, get your approval, then place the order.
Count what you actually paid. Most programs pay a percentage of your out-of-pocket cost. If a utility already covered $700, your state rebate is figured on what is left. Some states also cap total public funding as a share of the whole project — New Jersey's PSE&G caps combined public funding at 90%.
File inside the window. Some utilities give you as little as 60 days from purchase; others want the invoice dated within six months. Put the deadline on your calendar the day you buy and you keep the money.
Check the electrician list first. A few utilities pay 100% of the electrical work when you hire from their qualified contractor list. Pick your electrician off that list and the install can cost you nothing.
Apply early in the program year. Most programs are first-come, first-served against a fixed annual budget, and the good tiers go first — ComEd's standard $1,000 tier in Illinois closed February 28, 2026. Early applicants get paid.
Keep four documents. The itemized invoice showing the charger model and serial number, the electrician's invoice marked paid in full, the permit, and the inspection sign-off. Have those four ready and almost every program has what it needs.
This page is a research summary, not tax or legal advice, and it is not a guarantee that you will receive any specific amount. Programs open, close, change their terms, and run out of funding without notice. Always confirm current terms directly with the program administrator and your electric utility before you buy, and talk to your own tax professional about any credit you plan to claim. Amounts here were verified September 6, 2026 against the official sources linked next to each one. Boba Charge units are UL listed; where a program requires ENERGY STAR certification we flag it, because our ENERGY STAR listing status is not confirmed.
Ready to pick a charger?
What you can claim depends on your state, your electric utility, and whether you need new electrical work. Use the picker above, then confirm the current terms on the official program page linked next to every amount before you buy.
